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Molise, which after
Valle
D'Aosta, is the second smallest
region in Italy, only became a separate
region in 1963. It is a hilly area, that
sits on the
Adriatic coast between
Abruzzo
(with which it was previously joined) on
the north, and
Puglia
on the south. On the west it is
bordered by
Lazio Roma and
Campania.
Not many English-speaking travelers make
it to Molise, which is a pity. The
modern day visitor to Molise, an easy
journey from
Rome or
Naples, will find a verdant and
well-forested territory in which
numerous small, medieval hamlets, and
numerous castles, many still in
exceedingly good condition, are nestled.
The few large towns and cities are as
yet unspoiled by mass tourism; the
people are open and friendly; the
cuisine still strongly regional. There
are no heavy industries to speak of, so
Molise's economy is still principally
agricultural in the hinterlands and
fishing on the coast.
The Region was original settled by the
very tough and redoubtable
Samnites, one of the earliest italic
tribes. Initial clashes between
Samnium, as the area was called, and
Latium under the
Romans, resulted in a treaty (354
BC), which held the peace only until 322
BC, when war broke out again. The
Samnite Wars, during which the Samnites
triumphed over the Romans on several
occasions, lasted until 290 BC, when the
Romans finally routed the Samnites.
The revenge of the Romans was ferocious;
tens of thousands killed and whole
villages and towns leveled, never to
rise again.
As with the other areas of east cental
Italy, the
Goths and the
Lombards asserted control over the
area as the Roman Empire collapsed.
They were displaced in the early 11th
century by the
Normans. In 1053 the Normans
appointed Ugo di Mulhouse their
governor, and it is from his name from
which the name Molise is derived.
The territory was incorporated into the
Kingdom of Sicily, then in due course
became part of the Kingdom of Naples,
where it more or less remained, except
for a short period under Napoleonic
rule, until the area (as part of
Abruzzo-Molise) was brought into the
modern country of Italy in 1861.
During World War II, many Molisan
communities suffered at the hands of
both Axis and Allied forces.
Canadian forces were stationed at a
large camp, nicknamed Maple Leaf City,
at Campobasso. Finally, after a
prolonged period of peace, and with the
building of new transportation and
communication infrastructure, Molise is
finding its place on the Italian map.
At other times during your journey you
will want to take in the inland cities
of Isernia, and
Campobasso, both delightful in
their own ways, and the sea coast city
of Termoli, where most of Molise's
industrial activity takes place.
Some of the must see sights include the
two Roman theater, a Roman amphitheater
and a Samnian meeting house near Venafro,
snug in the folds of the Mainard
and Matese mountain ranges (along
the SS85). Above the town look for
a Church in the Romanesque style, with
Gothic renovations and 15th century
frescoes. If you have time, walk
to the adjacent 10th century castle,
then through the woods to the Chiesa
Santa Marie delle Grazie, inside a
hillside grotto, or cave.
The Pignatelli castle is located
near the town of Monteroduni also
on the SS85. Heading toward
Isernia you will traverse the mountains
on a combination of bridged
highways and long tunnels. Before
the turnoff for Isernia at Volturno your
eyes will be rivetted by the
breathtaking site of the Volturno
valley. Before reaching Isernia,
we recommend a side trip to the ancient
Samnite town of Aquilonia, now
gone. What remains is a
staggeringly large, mortarless wall
built of polygonal shaped blocks in the
4th century BC, some 15 m (10 feet)
thick, 3.5 meters (12 feet) high and
several kilometers long.
Those of you familiar with
Umberto Eco's book (and a movie of
the same name), The Name of the Rose,
will want to travel to Castel San
Vicenzo, sitting on a gorgeous high
plain in the snow-capped mountains.
This 9th century (and now restored)
Benedictine Abbey and the town that grew
up around it are not to be missed.
Outside the cities, other points of
interest include the oldest paleolithic
settlement ever found in Europe located
near Vasto, which was only
unearthed in 1978. Dating from
between the 10th and 9th centuries BC,
the settlement covers over 300,000
square feet, a large portion of which
can be viewed from suspended sidewalks.
Many artifacts remain on the site, but
many have made their way to a special
museum at the convent of Santa Maria
Assunte.
The highest settlement of ancient Italy
is
Pietrabbondante. Unsullied in
every way, the town and its surrounding
area, with views of mountains and
valleys, will take your breath away.
A restored Roman theatre and other
monuments and ruins are open to public
access.
For travelers who are seeking an
authentic Italian experience, the word
is "Go" and go soon, while the region
remains untrammeled by hordes of
tourists, and you can claim bragging
rights that belong to those who discover
a fabulous place that hardly anyone
knows the name of. Yet. |
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