Welcome to Piacenza
From
Jesse's Journeys in
Italy
Population: 95,132 (2004)
Official website:
Piacenza
Wikipedia:
Piacenza
Map:
MapQuest
Piacenza,
a sizeable city with a substantial
business and light industrial economic
base, sits on the south bank of the
River Po. It is an old city whose
history dates to the
Bronze Age
when the local area was inhabited by
Celtic
and Ligurian tribes people. The
city itself was founded by the
Romans
as a military colony - known as
Placentia - in 218 BC.
Over
time, with the draining and reclaiming
of the fertile land around the River Po,
Piacenza became an inland port, and an
important agricultural center known for
its grain and wool production.
But, like other cities of
Emilia Romagna
and
Lombardia to the north, throughout
the period of Rome's decline into the
late middle ages and beyond, Piacenza,
like other cities of the region,
was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt,
resulting over the centuries in a
layering of architectural styles.
Piacenza
is historically distinguished because it was actively
involved in the revolutions of 1848 that
were among the precipitating causes of
the
unification of Italy in 1860.
Declaring itself an "Italian" city in
1848 during these violent times, a large number of men from
Piacenza joined
Garibaldi in his
campaign in southern Italy.
Indeed, the city prides itself on being
the "first" city of a united Italy.
Today, Piacenza offers the traveler a
splendid array of buildings, museums,
churches, piazzas, public gardens,
artefacts and artworks upon which one's
eyes and spirit may feast.
Travelers may can also satisfy baser
needs enjoying the culinary delights
that Piacenza's cooks and chefs, drawing
on the produce of the surrounding
fertile agricultural plains, serve in a
plethora of restaurants, cafes and
trattorias. There are also a
number of festivals during the year,
including the Jazz Festival which takes
place in the spring.
Main Sites
The Palazzo Comunale, built in
the
Gothic
style
in 1281, as the seat of government has a
pink marble facade that features five
arcades. The shorter side has
three arcades and a rose window
overlooking the piazza. The
frescoed main hall is now used for
meetings and small conferences.
The building is one of the best
preserved medieval buildings in northern
Italy.
The nearby Palazzo Farnese was
built in the middle of the 16th century,
in the
Renaissance style,
for the powerful Farnese family which
ruled the city at that time. The
complex integrates the museo civico -
or civic museum - a part of which is
the archaeological museum. Here
one will find an incredible Etruscan
educational artefact - a medal depicting
a sheep's liver showing parts of the
liver and their functions.
The Duomo - or cathedral - was
started in 1122 AD and completed over a
century later in 1233 AD. Built in
the simple Romanesque style, it also
features a pink marble facade offset by
stone work. The impressive
interior, with a central naive and 25
pillars that separate the space into two
side aisles. There are important,
and quite beautiful frescoes on
the walls by leading artists from the
14th to 15th centuries. The alter,
presbytery and crypt can easily distract
one by their architectural integrity and
by their craft and artistry.
The large piazza with the two
magnificent bronze equestrian statues in
the
mannerist tradition (by Francesco
Mochi), not surprisingly is called
Piazza Cavalli. One statue is
of Alessandro Farnese, Duke of
Parma and Piacenza from 1586 AD, the
other of his son, Ranuccio.
Another of the important, and most
beautiful churches in Piacenza is the
Chiesa San Francesco, built in the
12th century with a combination of
Romanesque and Gothic architectural
features. Of particular interest
are the lunette over the main gate which
depicts the Ecstasy of St. Francis.
It was in this church in 1848 that
Piacenza was proclaimed annexed to the
Kingdom of Sardinia - the forerunner of
the modern Italian state.
The basilicas of Sant'Antonio and
San Savino should also be on the
list of "must sees" for those interested
in churches and church architecture.
The former, which possesses a
substantial octagonal tower, is a
Romanesque style
building, while the latter is Gothic,
but of the particular style found in
Lombardy. It was begun in 903 AD
but only consecrated in 1107 AD.
Other churches to add to the list
include the Renaissance style Santa
Maria Campagna (1522-1528) in which
there is a stunning wooden sculpture of
the Madonna, San Sixtus,
built in the Renaissance style by the
architect Tramello, in the 15th
century upon an ancient temple that had
been built in about 874 AD.
Tramello also did the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre. The
Dominican church dedicated to San
Giovanni in nearby Canale,
was built in 1220 AD but enlarged in the
16th century.
Dining in Piacenza
But, one can not live by art and
architecture alone, so eventually one
must submit - quite happily - to
Piacenza's gastronomy. Of
the principal dishes that make their way
to local menus, are pancetta
(rolled salted and seasoned pork belly),
coppa (pork neck) and salame
- pork sausage, usually cured and
flavoured with wine. Gorgonzola
and Robiola cheeses are local
favourites and often eaten instead of
meat. Various fried breads like
bortellina (pancakes) and
chisulen usually accompany the meat
or cheese dishes. The best of the
local pastas is Pisarei e faso -
a mixture of handmade pasta and beans.
Naturally, polenta and risotto,
eaten more than pasta in northern Italy,
are delightful mainstays of the
Piacenza. One's just desserts will
likely be made of locally grown fruits
and nuts, some times oddly, but
delightfully preserved in mustard
sauces.
A meal in Piacenza should be supped with
one of the delicious wines produced from
grapes grown on the hills around the
city. Try a Gutturnio dry
or sparkling red or a sparkling, nearly
foamy Bonarda red. If you
prefer white, you can rarely go wrong
with the Ortrugo or the much
sweeter Malvasia.
After dining, why not make your way
to one of old Piacenza's lovely public
gardens, some along the River Po, and
take a stroll, or sit quietly under the
shade of a plane tree, and contemplate
your good fortune: You are in one
of Italy's most beautiful cities!
By Vian Andrews, September 28, 2006 |
