Villa at Bagnara,
Calabria,
by Jesse Andrews
Buried couple, Papasidero,
Calabria,
by Jesse Andrews
A fort at Belvedere,
Calabria,
by Jesse Andrews |
Discovering
Calabria
From Jesse's Journey's in ItalyThe word
"Calabria" comes from that of the
ancient Greek word "Calab", meaning
dense forest of pines trees, which were exactly
what Greek explorers encountered upon landing at
the toe of Italy's boot nearly 5000 years ago.
The pine
trees still remain in forests located throughout
Italy's most southern mainland province and
stretch down to the vividly blue sea which cuts
along a variety of beaches that can consists of
fine black or white sand, large, polished smooth
multicolored rocks or fine black pebbles that
glisten, like diamonds in the hot afternoon sun.
All of
Calabria's beaches offer vividly green-blue
water and clean beach fronts that are generally
deserted during the hot summer months, unlike
other beaches in the north of Italy. Some of
Calabria's more popular beaches like the "Lungo
Mare" beach front in Praia a Mare, are
speckled by Italy's famous lidos (beach clubs),
with lounge chairs and cold drinks available at
your request. At night, some of these
"lidos" turn into discos and you can
dance next to the sea until dawn.
Dotted
along the coast, from Sapri to the Reggio of
Calabria, lie the ruins of Turkish guarding
posts, built in the 9th C. A.D., during the
Byzantine occupation and later occupied by the
Romans as vessels for coastal protection.
The
castles and forts which reside further inland
from the guarding posts, offer visitors a
glimpse at a crucial time in history for Europe
and the world. Unfortunately, the ruins are not
kept in pristine condition and are not
accompanied by English explanations of any type.
Further, they are often a walk to get to and not
accessible by car. The visitor his/herself must
work harder in Calabria to find historical
treasures, but there is no question that with a
little perseverance historical treasures will be
revealed For directions, the visitor can always
request information at the local "ATP"
within the larger towns of Scalea, Maratea,
Praia a Mare and Diamante.
There is
an abundance of history, art, architecture,
culture and food that you may have to look
harder for than in Rome, Venice or Florence, but
which nonetheless once found will delight those
with an adventurous spirit who are seeking
discoveries off the "beaten path."
Hidden
within the Historic Center of Scalea for
example, lies a 10th century Byzantine mosaic,
that you may have to request to see, but which
the woman, "Isabella" is happy to show
you. It helps to speak a little bit of Italian
in Calabria, because the English of the
residents is not impeccable. However, it is by
no means necessary that you are fluent - only
that you try to throw in a "per favore"
or "grazie" here and there. The
Calabrese will be happy at the fact that you try
and they will meet your efforts with theirs.
There
are several differences in culture that you will
encounter in your travels through Calabria. The
first is that you will notice immediately that
stores, businesses and institutions have a much
different schedule than that in England, the
USA, Canada or Australia.
Shops
here are generally open from 9 AM until 1PM and
then from 4 or 5 PM until 8:00 PM. This is
because in Calabria, people eat with their
families during this time and then generally
have a siesta. Absolutely nothing is open during
the siesta time, and generally the difference in
business hours throws North American and English
travelers off track, for while English speaking
countries may be accustomed to doing business in
the afternoon, it is only possible in Calabria
to do business during in the morning or the
evening.
Further
changes to take into consideration as far as
business hours are concerned is that absolutely
nothing is open on Sundays. There are no
supermarket you can go to. You must do your
shopping during the weekdays. If you have
nothing to eat on Sunday, you must eat out at a
restaurant or starve, hopefully not the latter.
Another
big difference you will immediately notice upon
coming to the South of Italy is that all of the
windows of all the stores and businesses have
outside blinds, to protect the establishments
from the heat during the
summer
months. This means that during the siesta times,
you will notice from 13:00 until 16:00 that many
of the towns look as though they are completely
deserted, for it looks as though all the
businesses have been locked up.
This is
because all the business owners are eating lunch
or snoozing during this time. Usually, the
afternoons are the towns quietest moments and
you may find yourself if you are out and about
during this time, walking down a completely
vacant street. After 16:00, it is a different
story, for everything comes alive again, people
resume their business activities and in the
summer months many small shops, cafes, bars, and
other businesses stay open well into the night.
As a
consequence of the business hours, the times
when people eat is also different. Breakfast
usually occurs at 9:00 or 10:00 AM, followed by
lunch at 1:00 or 2:00, followed by dinner at
8:00 or 9:00, PM. It is not uncommon for people
to eat as late as 11:00, PM here and many
restaurants cater to customers well after
midnight.
What
people eat in Calabria, is also very different
from what many English visitors may be use to.
The Calabrese diet consists almost exclusively
of pasta, pizza, fish and spicy sausage. It will
be virtually impossible for you to find oriental
or other European cuisine here, there are no
ethnic food sections at the supermarkets.
The
closest thing to ethnic here, is couscous.
Pasta, pizza, fish and gelato are the four main
options here, so you'd better like Italian food.
The difference between the food served in the
north as to that in the south is that in
Calabria it is a lot spicier than you may be
expecting. You can request how spicy you want
your dish or even add the peperoncini yourself.
Remember, that if you request your food extra
hot, you will probably be sweating for hours
after - it's that hot.
There
are delicious wines to enjoy with your meals
made in Calabria and other parts of Italy as
well as France. There are in general not a lot
of imported wines, but there will certainly be
one that you will enjoy and to make matters
better, they are usually available for under 10
Euros. In fact, eating in Calabria is extremely
cheap - usually per plate, one can eat for about
6 Euros, including alcohol.
There
are of course fancier restaurants that one may
dine in and enjoy, though to have a fulfilling,
appetizing meal is available at numerous
restaurants along the Cedri Riviera. You don't
have to look hard to find one. The
recommendation of most travelers to Calabria is
to explore until you find what you like.
One of
the many advantages of traveling in Calabria is
that, as previously mentioned regarding the
restaurants, it is extremely cheap compared to
the rest of Europe to travel here. Everything
from discos, to restaurants to shopping is at
comparatively low prices. Further, the people in
the north are much warmer, often more
charismatic than in the North. In addition, the
society is much more traditional, people greet
each other in the mornings, with "Buon
Giorno" (Good Day) and in the evening with
"Buona Sera" (good evening).
The
Calabrese are in general very welcoming, helpful
and traditional people. Many, though
traditionally vary poor offer all they have to
make your stay here as delightful as possible.
You may or may not understand the words coming
out of their mouths, but you will certainly
understand their gestures.
Life is
taken at a slower pace in Calabria, there are
specific times to eat, to relax, to do business
and to socialize. The inhabitants work hard and
conversely play hard, especially during the
summer months. You will find for yourself the
rhythms of life as you explore your way through
the towns, ruins, forts, forests, foot-paths,
churches and historical centers. You will see
sunsets offering viewers a light cast by the
clearness of the atmosphere and one thing, if
anything you will never, ever forget, is the
color of the water.
Calabria
is a land of ancient magic, generosity,
tranquility and beauty. It will if anything
rejuvenate your senses and feed your eyes with a
feast of colors. Calabria is Italy's best kept
secret and yours to appreciate in all its glory.
As the
Calabrese say: Buon Divertimento (Enjoy!) |
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