Welcome to
Aliano
From Jesse's Journeys in Italy
Population: 1,274 (2003)
Official website:
Aliano
Wikipedia:
n/a
Map:
MapQuest
Aliano (at 497 m) is
spectacularly positioned on a
hill between the River Agri and
its tributary the Sauro,
surrounded by deep gullies and
chasms carved into the
sedimentary rock.
Eeking out a living, farmers
living in the town still town
trek down to the valleys below
to tend their small fields and
gardens, returning every day up
the same well trodden paths.
The village is surrounded by
olive groves and the wonderful
giardini di Aliano -
mostly peach and citrus
orchards, which produce a
wonderful airborne scent.
Between May 1935
and October 1936,
Carlo Levi, philospher
and polemicist, was sent
into forced internal exile by
the
Mussolini's Fascist regime
which he criticized to great
effect.
He wrote his seminal work, a
kind of diary he titled Christ
Stopped in Eboli about
Lucania - this part of
Basilicata - and his stay in
Aliano, calling it "Gagliano". Levi was buried in
Aliano, at his own request,
after he died in 1975. The
house he lived in stands at the
entrance to the village.
In the centro storico the Palazzo Caporale,
built in the 18th century. has
become a museum with some
artifacts from his home, plus
photos and text
about Levi.
The Museum of Rural
Civilization was opened in
1987 in an old
olive pressing mill next to the
house where Levi lived. As you
might expect, the collection,
much of it from the 20th
century, includes equipment,
tools, furniture and other
household objects used in the
local area. One of the
rooms recreates the interior of
a typical farmer's one room
home. There are also a few
well preserved ancient frescoes.
The main church,
San Luigi Gonzaga, built
in the 16th century, which conserves a
painting by Carlo Sellito and
one attributed to Luca Giordano.
There is a Madonna and Infant
done in the Byzantine style,
anda sliver cross by the painter
Giovanni Perticara of Matera
done in about 1523.
In the streets of Aliano on the
last Sunday of Carnival they
hold the Frase, a play
during which it is permitted to
comment freely on local
occurrences and people, not a
dangerous thing now, but
certainly dangerous in days gone
by.
The young who participate wear
bells, animal harnesses and the
so-called "horn mask" (papier
maché, clay, rooster feathers)
which symbolize diabolical
forces. Carnival time is a
good time to visit.
In 1982 a necropolis was found
near the village dating from the
7th-5th centuries B.C with rich
content.
Close by the village is the
recently rebuilt Chiasa Madonna
dela Stella, offering a stunning
panamoraic view from its porch.
Leaving Aliano driving south, you descend
through more of this fantastic and
mezmerizing landscape coming
first, after 7km, to Alianello Nuovo (alt. 415 m) and
then to Alianello (alt. 400 m)
both set
into sheer tufa walls perforated with
caves.
Archaelogical excavations in the
area have revealed caves once
occupied by trogolodytes and
later by hermit monks, as well
as necropoli dating to the
paleolithic era, well before the
arrival of Greek colonists
between the 6th and 4th
Centuries BC. An abundance
of tools and other artifacts
recovered from the area are now
kept in the Siritide
National Museum in Policoro.
by Jesse Andrews, October 13th,
2006
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Basilicata |
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Directions |
By Car: South
from Naples on the
A3 to Buonabiticalo
then east on the
SS598 approximately
75 km. then slightly
north on the
secondary roads.
From the Ionian
coast, south or
north on the SS!06
to Policoro then
east on SS598 about
35 km then north. By
Bus: SITA bus
from Matera
The best way to
visit Aliano is to
stay in
Matera and make
a day trip, through
this incredible area
either by foot or
car. |
Directory |
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Festival mask,
Aliano |
Contributions |
Tell
us about your trip to Aliano. What
were your favorite places to visit,
stay, and dine.
Contribute |
Carlo Levi, Aliano |
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